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Food 食物
The saucier's apprentices
烹飪學(xué)徒
Humanity's relationship with cookery is unique—and shouldn't be lost By Michael Pollan.
生活與烹飪的獨(dú)特關(guān)系—不應(yīng)被舍棄
Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation.
烹飪，轉(zhuǎn)變的自然史
BEFORE Michael Pollan came along, eating as a form of politics was a fringe activity. Dubbed the “l(fā)iberal foodie intellectual” by the New York Times, the American activist and author has spent the last two decades writing bestselling books, such as “In Defence of Food”and “The Omnivore's Dilemma”, in an effort to popularise cooking and highlight the defects of the food industry and the rich world's bad eating habits.
在Michael Pollan的書火了之前，設(shè)飯局已不流行。這位被《紐約時(shí)代》稱為饕餮知識(shí)分子的美國(guó)作家兼活動(dòng)家，花了20年寫就了多本暢銷書，像是《為食物辯護(hù)》和《雜食動(dòng)物的困境》，他大力推廣烹飪，針砭時(shí)弊食品工業(yè)和發(fā)達(dá)國(guó)家糟糕的飲食習(xí)慣。
Mr Pollan's latest book, “Cooked”, is divided into four sections: fire, water, air and earth. Although something of an authorly conceit, these divisions allow him to explore a range of culinary topics from the joy of making soufflés that rise to why bacteria are needed in fermentation. He also returns to a conundrum he has previously described as the “cooking paradox”: why it is that people now spend less time preparing food from scratch and more time reading about cooking or watching cookery programmes on television.
他的新書《烹飪》分為四個(gè)部分：火，水，空氣和土。雖然這樣分，顯得有些自負(fù)，不過在每個(gè)部分，作者都有關(guān)于烹飪的心得，比如從制作起酥的樂趣到為什么發(fā)酵中需要細(xì)菌。書中同樣也探討了他之前談到的“烹飪的悖論”—為什么人們花更少的時(shí)間下廚，花更多的時(shí)間讀烹飪書籍或是看電視烹飪節(jié)目?
\
Mr Pollan explores the same way a naturalist might, by studying the animals, plants and microbes involved in cooking, and delving into history, culture and chemistry. With help from experts he masters the “whole hog” barbecue, a loaf of bread and the cooking pot. He describes the remarkable transformations that take place in the humble saucepan, where fibres are broken down, seeds softened and rendered edible, plants detoxified, and flavours brought together from far-flung taxonomic kingdoms.
作者研究烹飪中的動(dòng)物，植物和微生物，鉆研歷史，文化和化學(xué)，就像個(gè)博物學(xué)者一樣。在行家的幫助下，他掌握了如何制作烤豬，長(zhǎng)條面包，使用鍋?zhàn)?。他描述了發(fā)生在燉鍋中的奇妙轉(zhuǎn)變，鍋中食物的纖維被破壞，種子被煮軟，變得可以食用，植物食材的去毒以及多種不同時(shí)才一起烹飪帶來的奇妙味道。
Side by side with Mr Pollan the naturalist is the author as activist. Although the fruit and vegetable areas of supermarkets have grown ever bigger over the past two decades, cooking has expanded to take in heating up a tin of soup, microwaving ready-meals and frozen pizzas or breaking open a bag of mixed lettuce leaves. Mr Pollan places great emphasis on the work of Harry Balzer, an expert on food, diet and eating patterns in America. Collecting data from thousands of food diaries, Mr Balzer concludes that, since the 1980s, fewer and fewer people have been cooking their evening meal.
Michael Pollan是博物學(xué)家，也是作家和活動(dòng)家。雖然超市水果和蔬菜的區(qū)域在過去的20年不斷擴(kuò)大，可是烹飪卻越來越不被當(dāng)回事，連加熱罐頭湯，微波即時(shí)食品或冷凍披薩，打開袋裝萵苣葉都算烹飪。Harry Balzer 是研究美國(guó)人的食物，膳食和飲食習(xí)慣的專家，Pollen非常重視Harry的研究。Harry從幾千份飲食日記中獲得信息并得出結(jié)論，他認(rèn)為，自從20世紀(jì)80年代以來，越來越少的人在家做晚餐。
Mr Pollan is keen for this trend to be reversed and his book is a hymn to why people should be enticed back into the kitchen. Cooking, he believes, creates bonds between humans and the web of living creatures that sustain and nourish them. Turning away from this means that foods that are tasty and healthy (as bread once was) are being taken off the menu with far-reaching consequences. Industrially produced food almost always trades in quality ingredients for higher amounts of sugar, salt and fat—with a corresponding rise in levels of obesity.
Pollen致力于扭轉(zhuǎn)這樣的趨勢(shì)，他的書寫的就是為什么人們應(yīng)該自己烹飪。他堅(jiān)信，烹飪聯(lián)系了人類和其他被食用的生物。不贊成這一觀點(diǎn)就意味著不認(rèn)為健康美味的食物從菜單上取消會(huì)帶來深遠(yuǎn)的影響。通常，工業(yè)生產(chǎn)的食物會(huì)選用高糖高鹽高脂肪而非高品質(zhì)的食材，這就導(dǎo)致肥胖人數(shù)增加。
Before refrigeration, bad food often killed people. Bacteria, such as E. coli, occasionally still do. In recent decades a great deal of research has been done on the array of good microbes humans carry within them and which they need in order to stay healthy. “Cooked” is particularly informative about the rapidly moving scientific frontier of microbial ecology and how, in a post-Pasteurian world, the live-culture foods which used to make up a large part of the human diet are good for people and for the microbes that live inside the gut.
在冷藏技術(shù)出現(xiàn)之前，敗壞的食物通常是致命的。細(xì)菌，比如大腸桿菌，偶爾也會(huì)置人于死地。近幾十年內(nèi)有許多關(guān)于人體自身攜帶的益生菌和哪些益生菌能使人健康的研究?！杜腼儭分薪榻B了許多關(guān)于微生物生態(tài)學(xué)的最前沿研究，以及在巴氏消毒法出現(xiàn)之前，那些人類飲食中大部分被食用的含有微生物的食物對(duì)人體和體內(nèi)益生菌有什么益處。
The book dwells on fermented foods, for example. These have largely vanished from supermarkets but many cultures have developed such specialities, including Malaysian tempoyak, (fermented durian fruit), Russian kefir and Mexican pozole. Even bread, cheese and chocolate all depend on harnessing the power of microbes. These invisible forces travel alongside humans, Mr Pollan says, in a “dance of biocultural symbiosis”, cleverly transforming, sterilising or even adding nutrients.
《烹飪》詳細(xì)介紹了發(fā)酵食物。超市已經(jīng)很少售賣這類食物，但是在一些國(guó)家，發(fā)酵食物已成為特色菜，比如馬拉西亞的榴蓮糕，俄羅斯的一種類似酸奶的可佛酒，莫斯哥的pozole。就連面包，芝士和巧克力的制作都需要微生物的力量。Pollen稱，這種隱形的力量就存在于人體內(nèi)，是種奇妙的生物共生，轉(zhuǎn)變，滅菌或是制造營(yíng)養(yǎng)物質(zhì)。
Mr Pollan recognises that cooking today is very different from what it was in his grandmother's time, and that decades from now even a limited desire to cook may be seen as quaint. This would be a shame. Real cooking allows people to create, to put their own values into food, to escape the industrialised eating that has created health crises all over the world. Cooking is part of being human. The alternative is to evolve into passive consumers of standardised commodities that promise more than they deliver. Best of all, argues Mr Pollan, cooking makes people happy.
Pollen認(rèn)為，今天的烹飪和他外婆時(shí)代的烹飪是不同的。幾十年后，隨便煮煮飯都被認(rèn)為是件新奇有趣的事?，F(xiàn)在的趨勢(shì)真讓人惋惜。真正的烹飪(而非簡(jiǎn)單的加熱)是創(chuàng)造的過程，是加入自己的想法，是擺脫帶來世界健康危機(jī)的工業(yè)生產(chǎn)的食物。烹飪是生活的一部分。最重要的是，烹飪使人快樂。不烹飪就是選擇成為標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化生產(chǎn)食物的被動(dòng)消費(fèi)者，這些食物通常沒有廣告中說的那么好。
Food 食物
The saucier's apprentices
烹飪學(xué)徒
Humanity's relationship with cookery is unique—and shouldn't be lost By Michael Pollan.
生活與烹飪的獨(dú)特關(guān)系—不應(yīng)被舍棄
Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation.
烹飪，轉(zhuǎn)變的自然史
BEFORE Michael Pollan came along, eating as a form of politics was a fringe activity. Dubbed the “l(fā)iberal foodie intellectual” by the New York Times, the American activist and author has spent the last two decades writing bestselling books, such as “In Defence of Food”and “The Omnivore's Dilemma”, in an effort to popularise cooking and highlight the defects of the food industry and the rich world's bad eating habits.
在Michael Pollan的書火了之前，設(shè)飯局已不流行。這位被《紐約時(shí)代》稱為饕餮知識(shí)分子的美國(guó)作家兼活動(dòng)家，花了20年寫就了多本暢銷書，像是《為食物辯護(hù)》和《雜食動(dòng)物的困境》，他大力推廣烹飪，針砭時(shí)弊食品工業(yè)和發(fā)達(dá)國(guó)家糟糕的飲食習(xí)慣。
Mr Pollan's latest book, “Cooked”, is divided into four sections: fire, water, air and earth. Although something of an authorly conceit, these divisions allow him to explore a range of culinary topics from the joy of making soufflés that rise to why bacteria are needed in fermentation. He also returns to a conundrum he has previously described as the “cooking paradox”: why it is that people now spend less time preparing food from scratch and more time reading about cooking or watching cookery programmes on television.
他的新書《烹飪》分為四個(gè)部分：火，水，空氣和土。雖然這樣分，顯得有些自負(fù)，不過在每個(gè)部分，作者都有關(guān)于烹飪的心得，比如從制作起酥的樂趣到為什么發(fā)酵中需要細(xì)菌。書中同樣也探討了他之前談到的“烹飪的悖論”—為什么人們花更少的時(shí)間下廚，花更多的時(shí)間讀烹飪書籍或是看電視烹飪節(jié)目?
\
Mr Pollan explores the same way a naturalist might, by studying the animals, plants and microbes involved in cooking, and delving into history, culture and chemistry. With help from experts he masters the “whole hog” barbecue, a loaf of bread and the cooking pot. He describes the remarkable transformations that take place in the humble saucepan, where fibres are broken down, seeds softened and rendered edible, plants detoxified, and flavours brought together from far-flung taxonomic kingdoms.
作者研究烹飪中的動(dòng)物，植物和微生物，鉆研歷史，文化和化學(xué)，就像個(gè)博物學(xué)者一樣。在行家的幫助下，他掌握了如何制作烤豬，長(zhǎng)條面包，使用鍋?zhàn)?。他描述了發(fā)生在燉鍋中的奇妙轉(zhuǎn)變，鍋中食物的纖維被破壞，種子被煮軟，變得可以食用，植物食材的去毒以及多種不同時(shí)才一起烹飪帶來的奇妙味道。
Side by side with Mr Pollan the naturalist is the author as activist. Although the fruit and vegetable areas of supermarkets have grown ever bigger over the past two decades, cooking has expanded to take in heating up a tin of soup, microwaving ready-meals and frozen pizzas or breaking open a bag of mixed lettuce leaves. Mr Pollan places great emphasis on the work of Harry Balzer, an expert on food, diet and eating patterns in America. Collecting data from thousands of food diaries, Mr Balzer concludes that, since the 1980s, fewer and fewer people have been cooking their evening meal.
Michael Pollan是博物學(xué)家，也是作家和活動(dòng)家。雖然超市水果和蔬菜的區(qū)域在過去的20年不斷擴(kuò)大，可是烹飪卻越來越不被當(dāng)回事，連加熱罐頭湯，微波即時(shí)食品或冷凍披薩，打開袋裝萵苣葉都算烹飪。Harry Balzer 是研究美國(guó)人的食物，膳食和飲食習(xí)慣的專家，Pollen非常重視Harry的研究。Harry從幾千份飲食日記中獲得信息并得出結(jié)論，他認(rèn)為，自從20世紀(jì)80年代以來，越來越少的人在家做晚餐。
Mr Pollan is keen for this trend to be reversed and his book is a hymn to why people should be enticed back into the kitchen. Cooking, he believes, creates bonds between humans and the web of living creatures that sustain and nourish them. Turning away from this means that foods that are tasty and healthy (as bread once was) are being taken off the menu with far-reaching consequences. Industrially produced food almost always trades in quality ingredients for higher amounts of sugar, salt and fat—with a corresponding rise in levels of obesity.
Pollen致力于扭轉(zhuǎn)這樣的趨勢(shì)，他的書寫的就是為什么人們應(yīng)該自己烹飪。他堅(jiān)信，烹飪聯(lián)系了人類和其他被食用的生物。不贊成這一觀點(diǎn)就意味著不認(rèn)為健康美味的食物從菜單上取消會(huì)帶來深遠(yuǎn)的影響。通常，工業(yè)生產(chǎn)的食物會(huì)選用高糖高鹽高脂肪而非高品質(zhì)的食材，這就導(dǎo)致肥胖人數(shù)增加。
Before refrigeration, bad food often killed people. Bacteria, such as E. coli, occasionally still do. In recent decades a great deal of research has been done on the array of good microbes humans carry within them and which they need in order to stay healthy. “Cooked” is particularly informative about the rapidly moving scientific frontier of microbial ecology and how, in a post-Pasteurian world, the live-culture foods which used to make up a large part of the human diet are good for people and for the microbes that live inside the gut.
在冷藏技術(shù)出現(xiàn)之前，敗壞的食物通常是致命的。細(xì)菌，比如大腸桿菌，偶爾也會(huì)置人于死地。近幾十年內(nèi)有許多關(guān)于人體自身攜帶的益生菌和哪些益生菌能使人健康的研究?！杜腼儭分薪榻B了許多關(guān)于微生物生態(tài)學(xué)的最前沿研究，以及在巴氏消毒法出現(xiàn)之前，那些人類飲食中大部分被食用的含有微生物的食物對(duì)人體和體內(nèi)益生菌有什么益處。
The book dwells on fermented foods, for example. These have largely vanished from supermarkets but many cultures have developed such specialities, including Malaysian tempoyak, (fermented durian fruit), Russian kefir and Mexican pozole. Even bread, cheese and chocolate all depend on harnessing the power of microbes. These invisible forces travel alongside humans, Mr Pollan says, in a “dance of biocultural symbiosis”, cleverly transforming, sterilising or even adding nutrients.
《烹飪》詳細(xì)介紹了發(fā)酵食物。超市已經(jīng)很少售賣這類食物，但是在一些國(guó)家，發(fā)酵食物已成為特色菜，比如馬拉西亞的榴蓮糕，俄羅斯的一種類似酸奶的可佛酒，莫斯哥的pozole。就連面包，芝士和巧克力的制作都需要微生物的力量。Pollen稱，這種隱形的力量就存在于人體內(nèi)，是種奇妙的生物共生，轉(zhuǎn)變，滅菌或是制造營(yíng)養(yǎng)物質(zhì)。
Mr Pollan recognises that cooking today is very different from what it was in his grandmother's time, and that decades from now even a limited desire to cook may be seen as quaint. This would be a shame. Real cooking allows people to create, to put their own values into food, to escape the industrialised eating that has created health crises all over the world. Cooking is part of being human. The alternative is to evolve into passive consumers of standardised commodities that promise more than they deliver. Best of all, argues Mr Pollan, cooking makes people happy.
Pollen認(rèn)為，今天的烹飪和他外婆時(shí)代的烹飪是不同的。幾十年后，隨便煮煮飯都被認(rèn)為是件新奇有趣的事?，F(xiàn)在的趨勢(shì)真讓人惋惜。真正的烹飪(而非簡(jiǎn)單的加熱)是創(chuàng)造的過程，是加入自己的想法，是擺脫帶來世界健康危機(jī)的工業(yè)生產(chǎn)的食物。烹飪是生活的一部分。最重要的是，烹飪使人快樂。不烹飪就是選擇成為標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化生產(chǎn)食物的被動(dòng)消費(fèi)者，這些食物通常沒有廣告中說的那么好。