No one can really learn to rock climb from a newspaper， a video or the Internet. This article is intended as an introduction to rock climbing only. Seek instruction and places to practice first.
Why rock climb？
Adventure； freedom； go where no one has ever been； reach the top； enjoy nature； exercise； the excitement of newness. Or maybe you have your own reasons for wanting to learn. The beginning climber should always climb with an experienced leader， who will take care of runners， rope， sling， protection equipment， and the like. The beginning climber will be concerned with his/her own clothing， carabiners， and harness. All climbers should be concerned with the environment and courtesy to those who don't climb.
Clothing
For the beginner， any clothing tough enough to take abrasion will suffice. Athletic shoes or hiking boots will allow you to sample the sport. If you fall in love with rock climbing， you will want to buy specialized rock climbing shoes， known as varappe or kletterscuhe. They have rubber synthetics that greatly enhance one's friction on the rock.
Rope
Don't use old， static ropes not manufactured for climbing. They are dangerous. Modern climbing ropes are laboratory-tested and "stretch" slightly after a fall. They are kernmantle constructed （outer sheath over a large number of long inner filaments）， and although pricey， are used when sliding with less friction is desired. This preserves one's body from bruises and pain at the end of any fall. No climbing rope has failed from a fall since World War II. They're that good！
Carabiners
These are similar to large safety pins. Most climbers use a combination of the oval shape or the modified D-shape of Chouinard's. Royal Robbins， author of Basic Rockcraft writes， "When buying a carabiner， check to make sure the spring action is smooth but not too strong， that the gate meshes freely， that there are no burrs， and that they are strong."
Carabiners should test to at least 3，000 pounds. The responsible dealer will have information on carabiner strength. Ask before buying. Tying knots is beyond the scope of this article. You should learn the overhand knot， overhand loop， bowline， double-loop bowline， figure-of-eight loop， ring bend， and fisherman's knot.
Belay
The belay consists of anchor， friction， and position.
1. Anchor
The most important element of the belay is the anchor. The anchor is a fixed point of attachment such as a tree， rock， or other "bomb-proof" attachment. Most belay accidents are caused through failure of the belayer. Therefore， it is important to use two anchors or slings when possible and test the anchor first by applying stress.
2. Friction
Friction is what keeps one alive if there is a fall. Sometimes the human body is used for friction. Many belay devices aid the belayer in protecting the climber above or below. The belayer should be secured to a fixed anchor in certain situations， i.e.， the climber outweighs his belayer. The belayer protects the life of the climber at all times. Should his/her climber fall， one hand is always the "brake hand". The other hand is the "guide hand". It is imperative not to confuse these functions in the heat of a fall. Practice until holding with the proper hand is automatic.
3. Position
Robbins continues by writing that friction is useless unless the body is braced toward the direction of pull. Usually， this means a straight leg on the side of the rope going to the climber. The belayer places himself so as to minimize any adverse action upon the body， and generally faces the wall. Since it is not easy to judge the direction of force in a fall， much less the extent of force， the belayer must evaluate each situation and make use of the rock for the most secure position. Often he/she must be prepared for forces from various directions.
Conservation
Conservation of a route involves leaving it unchanged so others may enjoy nature and the climb. Use runners and "placed" protections whenever possible because they leave the rock intact. Pitons are not used for "free climbing" any more. They destroy the rock. Bolts are used only when necessary， and， only with permission of the land manager. Take your litter with you unless it is organic. Even orange rinds are slow to disintegrate and not eaten by animals.
Final Tips
The amount of strength one is able to conserve is far more important in rock climbing than the amount of strength one has. Move with a bit of spring and rhythm. Rest when you can. While resting， study the climb ahead. Use leg muscles for climbing， arms for balance and security.
Caution： loose rock is your enemy. It is impossible to tell whether a hold is solid by looking at it. All handholds should be tested. Handholds are struck with the heel of the hand； footholds are kicked for testing.
Rock climbing （not mountaineering as in climbing Mt. Everest） is a fast-growing sport for all ages and both sexes. Indoor "Rock Gyms" are popular in the metroplex for staying in shape. They are no substitute for outdoor climbing on "real" rock.
Jim Neumann， a resident of Arlington， Texas， is a long-time rock climber.
沒(méi)有人能夠通過(guò)報(bào)紙、電視、或者互聯(lián)網(wǎng)學(xué)會(huì)攀巖。本文旨在向大家介紹一下攀巖運(yùn)動(dòng)。不過(guò)，首先還是尋求指導(dǎo)、找個(gè)地方開(kāi)始挑戰(zhàn)吧。
攀巖的目的
冒險(xiǎn)，自由，探索人跡罕至的地方，勇攀頂點(diǎn)，享受自然，鍛煉體魄，尋求新奇刺激。當(dāng)然，你也許會(huì)有其他個(gè)人的原因。初級(jí)攀巖者應(yīng)該在專(zhuān)業(yè)人士指導(dǎo)下操作，他們可以為你準(zhǔn)備帶環(huán)、繩索、繩套、保護(hù)裝置等。初級(jí)攀巖者應(yīng)該準(zhǔn)備自己的服飾、鐵鎖和攀巖繩。所有攀巖者都應(yīng)該關(guān)注周?chē)沫h(huán)境，對(duì)那些不攀巖的人要有禮貌。
裝備
對(duì)于初級(jí)攀巖者來(lái)說(shuō)，任何耐磨的衣服都可以。你可以穿運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋或旅游鞋參加攀巖。如果你徹底迷上了它，就需要購(gòu)買(mǎi)專(zhuān)門(mén)的攀巖鞋，像"varappe"或者"kletterscuhe"就比較出名。它們是由橡膠制成的，能夠增強(qiáng)在巖石上的摩擦力。
攀巖繩
一定不要使用舊式固定的非攀巖專(zhuān)用的繩索，會(huì)很危險(xiǎn)?，F(xiàn)代的攀巖繩經(jīng)過(guò)測(cè)試，在落下時(shí)會(huì)有輕微的彈力。它們是由編織繩構(gòu)造而成的，盡管非常昂貴，但是在低摩擦滑行時(shí)卻是必需的。這樣可以使身體落下時(shí)不受到撞擊或疼痛。自二戰(zhàn)至今，還未出現(xiàn)攀巖繩斷掉的情況。它們非?？煽?。
鐵鎖
它們就相當(dāng)于大型的安全別針。大多數(shù)攀巖者都會(huì)選擇一系列橢圓形或經(jīng)過(guò)改良的D形Chouinard鐵鎖?！杜蕩r技術(shù)要素》的作者羅亞爾·羅賓斯在書(shū)中寫(xiě)道："在購(gòu)買(mǎi)鐵鎖時(shí)，一定要保證彈簧的彈力正常，但強(qiáng)度不能太大。開(kāi)口能夠正常開(kāi)閉。不能有損傷的刻邊。而且必須很牢固。"
鐵鎖應(yīng)該經(jīng)過(guò)至少3，000磅的測(cè)試。銷(xiāo)售商應(yīng)該有鐵鎖負(fù)重量的信息。在購(gòu)買(mǎi)之前一定要咨詢。關(guān)于打結(jié)問(wèn)題，這里就不進(jìn)行詳細(xì)地陳述了。但你應(yīng)該學(xué)會(huì)單結(jié)、反手繩圈、布林結(jié)、雙布林結(jié)、八字結(jié)、防脫結(jié)以及交織結(jié)。
固定保護(hù)繩
固定保護(hù)繩包括錨點(diǎn)、摩擦力和位置。
1. 錨點(diǎn)
固定保護(hù)繩最重要的部分就是錨點(diǎn)。錨點(diǎn)是指繩索的固定點(diǎn)，例如樹(shù)、巖石或其他結(jié)實(shí)的固定點(diǎn)。大多數(shù)固定保護(hù)繩事故都是由于保護(hù)者的失誤造成的。因此盡可能使用兩個(gè)錨點(diǎn)或繩套，并首先用力測(cè)試一下錨點(diǎn)。
2. 摩擦力
在降落時(shí)，摩擦力是對(duì)人至關(guān)重要的因素。有時(shí)候，人體也被用于摩擦。有的固定保護(hù)繩裝置協(xié)助保護(hù)者保護(hù)上面或下面的攀巖者。保護(hù)者應(yīng)該受到保護(hù)，并有一個(gè)固定的錨點(diǎn)，以防攀巖者的體重超過(guò)保護(hù)者。保護(hù)者應(yīng)該始終保證攀巖者的安全。如果有攀巖者掉了下去，保護(hù)者的一只手將被用于停止降落，而另一只手則用于指導(dǎo)。在有人降落的危險(xiǎn)時(shí)刻，這些功能是不允許混淆的。一定要多加練習(xí)，直到雙手形成了某種慣性。
3. 位置
羅賓斯在書(shū)中說(shuō)道，如果身體沒(méi)有受到牽引力的作用，那么摩擦力也是沒(méi)有任何用處的。通常情況下，這意味著靠近攀巖繩一側(cè)的腿要保持挺直。保護(hù)者將自己固定，以減少身體的反作用，而且通常情況下要面對(duì)巖壁。由于在降落過(guò)程中很難判斷受力的方向，更不用說(shuō)受力的大小，因此保護(hù)者必須對(duì)每一種情況進(jìn)行估量，并利用巖石取得最安全的位置。通常，他們需要準(zhǔn)備承受來(lái)自不同方向的力。
保護(hù)措施
對(duì)路線的保護(hù)措施包括保證路線的固定性，這樣其他人可以享受自然和攀登的過(guò)程。隨時(shí)使用帶環(huán)和固定的保護(hù)裝置，因?yàn)檫@樣可以保持巖石的完整。自由攀登是不使用巖釘?shù)?。因?yàn)樗麄兤茐牧藥r石。錨釘也只是在必要時(shí)，并獲得當(dāng)?shù)毓芾砣藛T同意之后才能使用。要隨身攜帶垃圾袋，除非是有機(jī)的。即使桔子皮也需要很長(zhǎng)時(shí)間才能被分解，而且不會(huì)有動(dòng)物來(lái)吃。
最后提示
在攀巖運(yùn)動(dòng)中，個(gè)人的耐力要比爆發(fā)力重要得多。要按照一定的彈力和節(jié)奏移動(dòng)。在允許的情況下，可以休息。但是在休息過(guò)程中，要考慮后面的攀登。利用腿部肌肉攀登，用胳膊來(lái)保持平衡，以保證自身安全。
注意：松軟的巖石是你的天敵。僅僅看表面很難判斷你攀住的巖石是否結(jié)實(shí)。任何一個(gè)手點(diǎn)都要仔細(xì)檢查。手點(diǎn)要用手的踝關(guān)節(jié)進(jìn)行檢查，而腳點(diǎn)要通過(guò)踢來(lái)檢查。
攀巖并非攀登喜馬拉雅山的登山運(yùn)動(dòng)，它是一項(xiàng)發(fā)展迅速的運(yùn)動(dòng)，適合任何年齡和性別。用于保持體形的室內(nèi)"攀巖場(chǎng)館"在大城市非常流行。但是它們無(wú)法取代室外真正的攀巖運(yùn)動(dòng)。
來(lái)自阿林頓的吉姆·諾爾曼就是一位忠實(shí)的攀巖愛(ài)好者。
Why rock climb？
Adventure； freedom； go where no one has ever been； reach the top； enjoy nature； exercise； the excitement of newness. Or maybe you have your own reasons for wanting to learn. The beginning climber should always climb with an experienced leader， who will take care of runners， rope， sling， protection equipment， and the like. The beginning climber will be concerned with his/her own clothing， carabiners， and harness. All climbers should be concerned with the environment and courtesy to those who don't climb.
Clothing
For the beginner， any clothing tough enough to take abrasion will suffice. Athletic shoes or hiking boots will allow you to sample the sport. If you fall in love with rock climbing， you will want to buy specialized rock climbing shoes， known as varappe or kletterscuhe. They have rubber synthetics that greatly enhance one's friction on the rock.
Rope
Don't use old， static ropes not manufactured for climbing. They are dangerous. Modern climbing ropes are laboratory-tested and "stretch" slightly after a fall. They are kernmantle constructed （outer sheath over a large number of long inner filaments）， and although pricey， are used when sliding with less friction is desired. This preserves one's body from bruises and pain at the end of any fall. No climbing rope has failed from a fall since World War II. They're that good！
Carabiners
These are similar to large safety pins. Most climbers use a combination of the oval shape or the modified D-shape of Chouinard's. Royal Robbins， author of Basic Rockcraft writes， "When buying a carabiner， check to make sure the spring action is smooth but not too strong， that the gate meshes freely， that there are no burrs， and that they are strong."
Carabiners should test to at least 3，000 pounds. The responsible dealer will have information on carabiner strength. Ask before buying. Tying knots is beyond the scope of this article. You should learn the overhand knot， overhand loop， bowline， double-loop bowline， figure-of-eight loop， ring bend， and fisherman's knot.
Belay
The belay consists of anchor， friction， and position.
1. Anchor
The most important element of the belay is the anchor. The anchor is a fixed point of attachment such as a tree， rock， or other "bomb-proof" attachment. Most belay accidents are caused through failure of the belayer. Therefore， it is important to use two anchors or slings when possible and test the anchor first by applying stress.
2. Friction
Friction is what keeps one alive if there is a fall. Sometimes the human body is used for friction. Many belay devices aid the belayer in protecting the climber above or below. The belayer should be secured to a fixed anchor in certain situations， i.e.， the climber outweighs his belayer. The belayer protects the life of the climber at all times. Should his/her climber fall， one hand is always the "brake hand". The other hand is the "guide hand". It is imperative not to confuse these functions in the heat of a fall. Practice until holding with the proper hand is automatic.
3. Position
Robbins continues by writing that friction is useless unless the body is braced toward the direction of pull. Usually， this means a straight leg on the side of the rope going to the climber. The belayer places himself so as to minimize any adverse action upon the body， and generally faces the wall. Since it is not easy to judge the direction of force in a fall， much less the extent of force， the belayer must evaluate each situation and make use of the rock for the most secure position. Often he/she must be prepared for forces from various directions.
Conservation
Conservation of a route involves leaving it unchanged so others may enjoy nature and the climb. Use runners and "placed" protections whenever possible because they leave the rock intact. Pitons are not used for "free climbing" any more. They destroy the rock. Bolts are used only when necessary， and， only with permission of the land manager. Take your litter with you unless it is organic. Even orange rinds are slow to disintegrate and not eaten by animals.
Final Tips
The amount of strength one is able to conserve is far more important in rock climbing than the amount of strength one has. Move with a bit of spring and rhythm. Rest when you can. While resting， study the climb ahead. Use leg muscles for climbing， arms for balance and security.
Caution： loose rock is your enemy. It is impossible to tell whether a hold is solid by looking at it. All handholds should be tested. Handholds are struck with the heel of the hand； footholds are kicked for testing.
Rock climbing （not mountaineering as in climbing Mt. Everest） is a fast-growing sport for all ages and both sexes. Indoor "Rock Gyms" are popular in the metroplex for staying in shape. They are no substitute for outdoor climbing on "real" rock.
Jim Neumann， a resident of Arlington， Texas， is a long-time rock climber.
沒(méi)有人能夠通過(guò)報(bào)紙、電視、或者互聯(lián)網(wǎng)學(xué)會(huì)攀巖。本文旨在向大家介紹一下攀巖運(yùn)動(dòng)。不過(guò)，首先還是尋求指導(dǎo)、找個(gè)地方開(kāi)始挑戰(zhàn)吧。
攀巖的目的
冒險(xiǎn)，自由，探索人跡罕至的地方，勇攀頂點(diǎn)，享受自然，鍛煉體魄，尋求新奇刺激。當(dāng)然，你也許會(huì)有其他個(gè)人的原因。初級(jí)攀巖者應(yīng)該在專(zhuān)業(yè)人士指導(dǎo)下操作，他們可以為你準(zhǔn)備帶環(huán)、繩索、繩套、保護(hù)裝置等。初級(jí)攀巖者應(yīng)該準(zhǔn)備自己的服飾、鐵鎖和攀巖繩。所有攀巖者都應(yīng)該關(guān)注周?chē)沫h(huán)境，對(duì)那些不攀巖的人要有禮貌。
裝備
對(duì)于初級(jí)攀巖者來(lái)說(shuō)，任何耐磨的衣服都可以。你可以穿運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋或旅游鞋參加攀巖。如果你徹底迷上了它，就需要購(gòu)買(mǎi)專(zhuān)門(mén)的攀巖鞋，像"varappe"或者"kletterscuhe"就比較出名。它們是由橡膠制成的，能夠增強(qiáng)在巖石上的摩擦力。
攀巖繩
一定不要使用舊式固定的非攀巖專(zhuān)用的繩索，會(huì)很危險(xiǎn)?，F(xiàn)代的攀巖繩經(jīng)過(guò)測(cè)試，在落下時(shí)會(huì)有輕微的彈力。它們是由編織繩構(gòu)造而成的，盡管非常昂貴，但是在低摩擦滑行時(shí)卻是必需的。這樣可以使身體落下時(shí)不受到撞擊或疼痛。自二戰(zhàn)至今，還未出現(xiàn)攀巖繩斷掉的情況。它們非?？煽?。
鐵鎖
它們就相當(dāng)于大型的安全別針。大多數(shù)攀巖者都會(huì)選擇一系列橢圓形或經(jīng)過(guò)改良的D形Chouinard鐵鎖?！杜蕩r技術(shù)要素》的作者羅亞爾·羅賓斯在書(shū)中寫(xiě)道："在購(gòu)買(mǎi)鐵鎖時(shí)，一定要保證彈簧的彈力正常，但強(qiáng)度不能太大。開(kāi)口能夠正常開(kāi)閉。不能有損傷的刻邊。而且必須很牢固。"
鐵鎖應(yīng)該經(jīng)過(guò)至少3，000磅的測(cè)試。銷(xiāo)售商應(yīng)該有鐵鎖負(fù)重量的信息。在購(gòu)買(mǎi)之前一定要咨詢。關(guān)于打結(jié)問(wèn)題，這里就不進(jìn)行詳細(xì)地陳述了。但你應(yīng)該學(xué)會(huì)單結(jié)、反手繩圈、布林結(jié)、雙布林結(jié)、八字結(jié)、防脫結(jié)以及交織結(jié)。
固定保護(hù)繩
固定保護(hù)繩包括錨點(diǎn)、摩擦力和位置。
1. 錨點(diǎn)
固定保護(hù)繩最重要的部分就是錨點(diǎn)。錨點(diǎn)是指繩索的固定點(diǎn)，例如樹(shù)、巖石或其他結(jié)實(shí)的固定點(diǎn)。大多數(shù)固定保護(hù)繩事故都是由于保護(hù)者的失誤造成的。因此盡可能使用兩個(gè)錨點(diǎn)或繩套，并首先用力測(cè)試一下錨點(diǎn)。
2. 摩擦力
在降落時(shí)，摩擦力是對(duì)人至關(guān)重要的因素。有時(shí)候，人體也被用于摩擦。有的固定保護(hù)繩裝置協(xié)助保護(hù)者保護(hù)上面或下面的攀巖者。保護(hù)者應(yīng)該受到保護(hù)，并有一個(gè)固定的錨點(diǎn)，以防攀巖者的體重超過(guò)保護(hù)者。保護(hù)者應(yīng)該始終保證攀巖者的安全。如果有攀巖者掉了下去，保護(hù)者的一只手將被用于停止降落，而另一只手則用于指導(dǎo)。在有人降落的危險(xiǎn)時(shí)刻，這些功能是不允許混淆的。一定要多加練習(xí)，直到雙手形成了某種慣性。
3. 位置
羅賓斯在書(shū)中說(shuō)道，如果身體沒(méi)有受到牽引力的作用，那么摩擦力也是沒(méi)有任何用處的。通常情況下，這意味著靠近攀巖繩一側(cè)的腿要保持挺直。保護(hù)者將自己固定，以減少身體的反作用，而且通常情況下要面對(duì)巖壁。由于在降落過(guò)程中很難判斷受力的方向，更不用說(shuō)受力的大小，因此保護(hù)者必須對(duì)每一種情況進(jìn)行估量，并利用巖石取得最安全的位置。通常，他們需要準(zhǔn)備承受來(lái)自不同方向的力。
保護(hù)措施
對(duì)路線的保護(hù)措施包括保證路線的固定性，這樣其他人可以享受自然和攀登的過(guò)程。隨時(shí)使用帶環(huán)和固定的保護(hù)裝置，因?yàn)檫@樣可以保持巖石的完整。自由攀登是不使用巖釘?shù)?。因?yàn)樗麄兤茐牧藥r石。錨釘也只是在必要時(shí)，并獲得當(dāng)?shù)毓芾砣藛T同意之后才能使用。要隨身攜帶垃圾袋，除非是有機(jī)的。即使桔子皮也需要很長(zhǎng)時(shí)間才能被分解，而且不會(huì)有動(dòng)物來(lái)吃。
最后提示
在攀巖運(yùn)動(dòng)中，個(gè)人的耐力要比爆發(fā)力重要得多。要按照一定的彈力和節(jié)奏移動(dòng)。在允許的情況下，可以休息。但是在休息過(guò)程中，要考慮后面的攀登。利用腿部肌肉攀登，用胳膊來(lái)保持平衡，以保證自身安全。
注意：松軟的巖石是你的天敵。僅僅看表面很難判斷你攀住的巖石是否結(jié)實(shí)。任何一個(gè)手點(diǎn)都要仔細(xì)檢查。手點(diǎn)要用手的踝關(guān)節(jié)進(jìn)行檢查，而腳點(diǎn)要通過(guò)踢來(lái)檢查。
攀巖并非攀登喜馬拉雅山的登山運(yùn)動(dòng)，它是一項(xiàng)發(fā)展迅速的運(yùn)動(dòng)，適合任何年齡和性別。用于保持體形的室內(nèi)"攀巖場(chǎng)館"在大城市非常流行。但是它們無(wú)法取代室外真正的攀巖運(yùn)動(dòng)。
來(lái)自阿林頓的吉姆·諾爾曼就是一位忠實(shí)的攀巖愛(ài)好者。